The San Marino Rally

I knew San Marino from international football. One of those teams with a fireman and teacher in their squad, a microstate surrounded by Italy. Also that it was the oldest republic in the world. Outside of that, I had no idea. I arrived by bus from Rimini on a sunny Friday evening, ready for a wild weekend. The hostel was surprisingly expensive, €20 a night for a 6 bed dorm, in a building with long corridors and no soul. And no other souls present to add to that.

I walked up the hill, to the narrow alleys of the old town, hoping to enjoy the sights and atmosphere of the city. A proper medieval old town, all light tan sandstone rock buildings, 3-4 stories high, imposing over the streets. As I headed towards the Guaita Tower, one of the three 11th century towers in the city, the fog rolled in, condensing my view of the surroundings into a grey blanket. This self walking tour was pointless, what else can you do on a Friday night in San Marino? Irish pub!

Unfortunately, the only one that appears when you search for “Irish Pub San Marino” on google is, ‘London Pub’. I walked down the main road to it anyway. It was closed. But, there was what sounded like cars revving somewhere out there in the fog. Standing outside the closed pub, the revving grew in intensity, until a white flash passed by - The San Marino Rally was on.

Tiny medieval streets, cafes with their tables and chairs packed up on the sides, hard stone walls and tight corners under castle walls. A great mix of danger, fun and scenery. I’d never have thought of it beforehand, coming from rural Ireland, where rallies on country lanes and green fields are the norm, but this could be the perfect place for a rally. Not ideal for the drivers though, one mistake and you’re gone, there’s no wiggle room here. Like the Monaco Grand Prix.

No idea where is best to stand and watch it though - there was no real danger corner when every corner is a danger corner. Eventually, I stood in the courtyard of the castle, where archers practiced, with a view on one of the hairpin turns coming into the upper parts of the old town. It was class. This was the pre rally show as it turns out, they warmed up their engines flying around the corners, and parked up in the main square for people to admire them - Martini sponsored one, Pirelli Club Italia, all parked up under the lights and assassins creed esque towers. A great evening. Tomorrow, the real rally begins. Unfortunately, I’m not here for the real rally, I’m off to Rome by train from Rimini. But seeing the rally cars, and knowing this takes place, turned my image of San Marino from a microstate who struggles at football to a real country with its own quirks, festivals, life.